I possess an affinity for new restaurants. Call it a byproduct of the job, but when a new spot opens up, I’m immediately itching to go. That means I’ve tried a lot of restaurants. But despite a consistent string of openings across Reno, I still find time to frequent favorites. And one of those favorites is Land Ocean.

Land Ocean on South Virginia Street is the perfect spot when you’re looking for a date night spot that is also kid-friendly or are searching for a swanky bar for pre-movie drinks. Hosting everything from bottomless boozy brunches to special occasion dinners for the whole family, Land Ocean has a high-end menu that doesn’t overwhelm.

It can be hard to choose a favorite dish in a place I frequent often, but I admittedly have some go-tos. For starters, I maintain nothing is more delicious than the grilled artichoke. Cooked until it’s juicy and soft, bites of this marinated delicacy are best dipped in a ramekin of lemon-basil remoulade.

For those interested in a heartier appetizer, the bacon-jalapeño mac and cheese boasts four kinds of cheese and fresh jalapeños for a kick. Calamari, fresh-baked French bread and jumbo lump crab cakes are all showstoppers.

Cocktails to-go from Land Ocean. Image: Nora Tarte — Pandemic-era cocktails to-go from Land Ocean. Image: Nora Tarte / This Is Reno.

If you’re an oyster fan, grab a half-dozen citrus mignonettes on a half shell or veto those and opt for the spicy garlic mussels for more flavor, served with a grilled baguette.

When it comes to the main entrée, it just depends how hungry you are. The burgers are a solid option, made with American Kobe beef. The sharp cheddar burger keeps it simple with just really good ingredients—lettuce, red onion, pickle, tomato.

The “LAVISH” burger is a bit more involved, stacking cheddar cheese, bacon, caramelized onions, guacamole, roasted garlic and habanero aioli on a soft bun. If you’re stopping in for lunch, the salmon BLT is refreshing, featuring smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato and a garlic aioli. All are served with your choice of fries, potato chips or a salad.

Diving into the bulk of the menu, a collection of land and sea options, I never order without first asking about the fitness special. Chef-created specialties under 450 calories are often some of my favorite items from the menu – but they rotate, so it’s also unpredictable.

If that isn’t a fit, The Land Ocean is the restaurant’s namesake: a six-ounce filet mignon next to a six-ounce lobster tail, served with twice-baked potatoes and grilled asparagus. The wood-fired rotisserie chicken tastes like Thanksgiving dinner (sub turkey for chicken) with a pile of creamy mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus resting alongside juicy chicken.

From a collection of well-executed steaks (New York strip, ribeye, filet mignon) to creative seafood (blackened salmon, ahi tuna poke bowl, macadamia nut crusted Chilean sea bass), the menu offers a little of everything.

Brunch is another beast altogether. Served only on the weekends, this is the place to indulge in bottomless mimosas and a selection of juices. You can also opt for a loaded Bloody Mary (served with a jumbo prawn, smokey bacon and stuffed olives). The food takes center stage, however, a parade of sweet and savory dishes from a crab cake benedict and country fried steak and eggs to assorted mini muffins and crème brulee French toast.

Whether you’re looking for something to sip with dinner or came just for the drinks (a packed dining room doesn’t mean you can’t sidle up to the bar), the cocktail program is worth a second glance. Wine and beer are always available, but the concoctions perfected behind the bar are, in my opinion, even better.

If you like it boozy, order up a vanilla old fashioned, made with vanilla bean-infused whiskey, cherry bark bitters and Luxardo cherry; or consider an orange Manhattan, made with barrel-aged, orange-infused whiskey, sweet vermouth and orange bitters. Sweeter options include the Special K martini and raspberry lemon drop, while refreshing cocktails include the Mt. Rose mule and Alpine Linen, made with a base of gin before elderflower liqueur, cucumber, fresh lime juice and club soda are added.