The People Behind FTP open their newest restaurant venture in Reno
The Parlor opened its doors Aug. 26 and I didn’t waste any time in checking it out. It is the newest eatery from the owners of Flowing Tide Pubs, but it’s also different from FTP, with a different menu and décor. It occupies the space that was once Hard Water House, 7689 S. Virginia St., and continues to serve up cocktails and cigars much like its predecessor.
The Parlor advertises itself as a place for spirits, gaming, and food. The menu is American grill with specialties that set it apart. You won’t see the typical menu items from FTP here—The Parlor is its own spot.
The similarities, however, are in the bar setup. A full bar is in the center of the establishment, with video gaming all around it (though it is currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions). The style is a little modern prohibition, a lounge outfitted with big, cozy seats around tables and TVs throughout, as well as tables of varying sizes on the other side of the bar.
Hugo Castillo Ruiz is the chef behind the made-from-scratch menu. There’s a little bit of everything on it from starters to salads, burgers to steaks, and even breakfast. We came for a late-night bite on a Saturday night and it was a “packed” house. Packed meaning the tables were full and due to COVID-19 bar seating is closed, but we were able to snag a table pretty quickly. Whether or not they offer reservations still seems to be up in the air—the place is new after all—but I’m sure they will come to a consensus soon.
We started our meal with the gluten-free Short Rib Tacos and The Royal Poutine. The first is a plate of three street-style tacos make with a cabernet-braised short rib of beef, cilantro crema, cilantro, and queso fresco loaded on corn tortillas and served with a side of salsa. The flavors in this simple dish are complex and the meat is juicy and flavorful.
The Royal Poutine seems more akin to nachos made with fries than it does a traditional poutine, but that doesn’t take away from how delicious it is–just manage expectations. If you’re expecting this to taste like the stuff from Canada, that isn’t what you’re going to get.
Instead, the dish is a large (and we do mean large) plate of sidewinder fries, loaded with pork tinga, jalapeño cheese sauce, pico de gallo, queso fresco, jalapeños and enchilada sauce. You know how when you order nachos and the top portion is loaded with toppings but the bottom and side chips seem like they got the short end of the stick? That’s not an issue here. The way this dish is put together seems to assure you won’t be left with forgotten fries.
With so many choices it’s hard to land on one. In an attempt not to choose between a burger or steak, I kind of had both. The Big Apple is a New York steak served on a toasted hoagie with caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, Swiss cheese, and a chipotle aioli (hold the mushrooms for me!) The flavors on this are perfectly crafted. Again, the burger/steak was juicy and full of flavor, cooked medium so it was pink in the center, and a little messy but not falling apart in my hands. Not usually a fan of Swiss cheese, it makes sense on this burger, a good balance to the sweetness of the onions.
In my opinion, no Saturday night dinner is complete without a cocktail. Chosen partially for its name, I opted for The Litty, a light and fresh blend of muddled cucumbers, St. George Terrior Gin, lemon juice, and mint simple syrup, served with a lemon twist. While it’s not a heavy drink, it also doesn’t skimp on the alcohol.
The wine and beer lists are also worthy of your attention. Not always does a restaurant have equal offerings of both beer and wine but this one does a good job of providing a balanced menu of both.
I skipped the cigar but I did notice tables enjoying a few on the lounge side in their overstuffed, plush chairs.
Details
Online: https://theparlorreno.com/
In Person: 7689 South Virginia Street, Reno, Nevada 89511, in the Winner’s Corner shopping center
Call: (775) 737-4018
Hours: 24 hours
