The Wok on Silverada and Oddie Boulevards serves Chinese-American and authentic Chong King (Chongqing) dishes. Owners Janet Soi and Marty Liu have been operating the local favorite for four years and four months. Chongqing is a large city in southwest China, and the cuisine there is known for its heat, spices, and inclusion of the Sichuan peppercorn.
A Brief Wok Into the Past
The mid-sized building that The Wok now occupies was a Wendy’s when I was a kid. I’ve got to say, food at The Wok outdoes Wendy’s by a stunning margin. Upon entering the restaurant, evidence of the building’s fast food history is nowhere to be seen. The well-kept interior includes a tall host area with two televisions behind it, one playing TNT and the other running photos of the food on loop. The décor is subtle and welcoming.
I was lucky to speak with co-owner, Janet Soi. Despite acting as the primary server while I was there, she took care of all her tables with speed and a smile all while popping over to chat with me as her time permitted. Before owning a restaurant, she worked as a tour guide. Her experience in that industry showed as our conversation flowed naturally about ThisisReno, local food, and what draws so many loyal customers to her restaurant.
Ladies and Gentlemen, Salt-N-Pepa!
I ordered the salt pepper calamari for $9.95 and the Dang Dang noodle for $10.95. Soi generously offered a complimentary order of the combination pan fried noodle, regularly $13.95.
The salt pepper calamari features battered and fried baby squid, jalapeños, yellow onion, green onion, red onion, large slices of ginger, and shredded cabbage. The squid was wonderfully crisp and tasted of salt, black pepper, and garlic. The myriad of onions each contributed to the dish with sweetness, crunch, bitterness, and bite. The ginger and jalapeños added bright, vibrant heat. Black pepper is my favorite spice and jalapeño is my favorite fresh chili pepper. I loved everything about this dish.
Next was the Dang Dang noodle. Upon arrival of the dish, it may not look like it’s one of the most flavorful dishes in northern Nevada, but a fury of flavor lies therein. At first glance, all the diner sees are springy, yellow, chow mein noodles topped with green onions, bean sprouts, and minced pork. Not bad so far, but it’s when you turn the noodles over several times that the culinary sorcery begins.
The more you stir, the more a citric fragrance permeates the air above the noodles. Soon the diner is left with noodles bathed in glossy chili oil. Note that the chili oil available on the table as a condiment is different than the chili oil served with the Dang Dang noodles. The condiment version takes six or more hours to slow cook.
The oil served with the noodles prominently features the Sichuan peppercorn. Some may not know that Sichuan peppercorns include approximately 3% hydroxy-alpha sanshool. The molecule creates a tingly, numbing sensation in the mouth. Biting into the noodles was unlike anything else I had ever tried. I tasted citrus, heat, sour, bitterness, umami, and bite. The flavors were intense and wonderful.
The final dish to arrive was the combination pan-fried noodles. The noodles were served perfectly crunchy with well-cooked celery, broccoli, zucchini, snow peas, water chestnuts, mushrooms, bell pepper, tender beef and chicken, and large, tender shrimp. The slightly viscous sauce accompanying the meal prominently featured soy sauce, umami, and a subtle sweetness. Anyone that appreciates well-executed Chinese-American classics is sure to enjoy this dish.
Soi said that she can eat Chinese food every day because the flavors, ingredients, and cooking methods are so diverse. The menu at The Wok is huge, so it’s no wonder regular customers have yet to sample the entire menu. I recommend that those new to The Wok check out the back of the menu to explore dishes typical of Chongqing. Many of the dishes offer varying degrees of heat available on a scale from one to ten. Whether you prefer Chinese-American staples or Chongqing masterpieces, rest assured that Soi, Liu, and their friendly staff will take good care of you.
The Wok is located at 1825 Silverada Boulevard in Reno. They are open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and open on Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Call in your take-out order at 775-355-5835. Visit them online at thewokchinesereno.com.
